Blogsy Post and Cyclist in the Dark

I've gotten a bit of a "view from behind the windshield" this week of a cyclist in the dark while I'm up here in Quebec. It has put me into a bit of a quandary. The cyclist in question has the legally required equipment and, in addition, wears high vis clothing.

Despite this, and despite the fact that I am FAR more attentive to cyclists than are most motorists, I found it difficult to judge closing parameters and how best to pass. Perhaps this is due to a combination of snow alongside the road, lights from other traffic, and perhaps a far, "off to the right" lane position.

My best photo of the situation is shown below. And in case you were wondering, my training kicked in and I made a full lane change when it was safe to do so in order to pass. A couple of motorists followed my example instead of cutting the guy close. Perhaps occasional ice contributed.

I'm not suggesting things would necessarily have been helped had he been riding in a more assertive lane position (though I believe it likely), but I was surprised to see what little help any of that high vis stuff is under the right (actually wrong) conditions.

Just sayin, be careful out there in the dark, snowy conditions. AND, if you often drive and encounter cyclists in the dark with other traffic on the road, how do YOUR experiences compare. Back in Texas Tarrant suburbs, I rarely see cyclists in such condition, though I ride in them daily. Hmm...

UPDATE - The cyclist had a reflector, reflective stripes on his panniers and a high vis vest. The red spot on his helmet is a blinky - looked like a Planet Bike Superflash, though not as bright as mine. I don't recall there being any other light - the low red is a reflector and wasn't very visible until I got close. I do not know if it was a CPSC or SAE reflector. My own reflector is an SAE which reflects better than a regular bike reflector in the lane position I usually am riding on similar roads. I shall have to do a future post comparing reflector types. I did not note it in the original post, but, while I'm far from being an uncritical fan of bike lanes, this might be one situation in which they might really pay off because there are no crossing conflicts and a "to the right" cyclist is difficult to assess and act properly with as a motorist. I do not know if a cyclist assertively controlling the lane would have made it easier - I have never seen one in such conditions.
 

Temperature Twenty to Forty

Top of the Photo - Attire for Temperatures Around Freezing for the Ride to Work
Bottom of the Photo, Attire for the Ride Home on the Same Day
You'll Note Wool Socks are Carried on the Way Home. They are TOO WARM for 50F Conditions!

Mostly, what I wear for my commute depends on the temperature and conditions when I leave in the morning. I'll bring along added items to make things comfy on the way home as well, but the morning is what really counts because that is usually the low temperature commute and shedding clothes is an option for the ride home.

The morning temperature ranges of interest in North Texas are (Fahrenheit):

• over 60
• 40-60
• 20-40
• under 20

In 2011, the coldest morning was 15F and the warmest was 86F. This time of year, it is rarely over 60 or under 20. Even with wind chill, I've never experienced morning temperatures under 8F, but even that is a perfectly manageable temperature.

Today, I'll talk about what I wear on my morning commute when the temperature is between twenty and forty. Unlike the 40-60 range, one needs to start seriously considering the cold, but extra measures are limited, and most North Texas cyclists have got the items they'll need.

Head and Neck

For headwear, I wear one of two balaclavas, though at the top end of the 20-40 range and with tailwinds, I often simply stick to my headsweat and pull it down over my ears a bit. Even when I wear a balaclava, I'll bring the headsweat for the ride home. I have a "winter cap" I got on sale last summer, but haven't used it yet. In addition, I accessorize with safety goggles in order to avoid watery eyes due to tears caused by wind in my eyes. Those stay in the trunk on the trip home. For those without a balaclava, a good cap and a neck warmer works as well. I'd wear my dinosaur hat, but it won't fit under or over my helmet. Still, dinosaurs ARE rather chic...

Core Warmth

Moving down, I really don't pay a lot of attention to the "layering" advice you often read in bike blogs. Frankly, it is simply more trouble than it is worth. I found that to be the case even when my commute was 20 miles rather than the current 7. Instead, I find that my "high vis black" cycling jacket in combination with a sweatshirt works just dandy. It is a simple combination. At the upper end of the range, I sometimes swap to a long-sleeved cotton tee shirt. In this range, I typically wear my "high vis black" soft shell gloves. These tend to be too warm for the return trip home, so I'll carry regular, full finger cycling gloves in the trunk. I really like the soft shell gloves, but if I didn't have any, a pair of windproof work gloves in combination with the cycling gloves cut the chill nicely. The LONG SLEEVES on the sweatshirt are an important ingredient, since they combine with the cycling jacket to keep my arms comfortable all the way down to the bottom of the temperature range. At the upper end of the range, I'll often eschew the sweatshirt in favor of a long-sleeve cotton t shirt.

Legs and Feet

For my legs, I wear work pants. I'll choose warmer ones when it is colder, but most work slacks work well even down to 20F. I also use reflective Velcro cuff bands which keep breezes at bay and grease off the pants. I have a few pairs of camo cuff bands, but haven't used them since the reflective ones seem to work just fine. To finish the outfit off, I use wool socks with shoes that work with the bike of the day. The wool socks are too warm for work so I carry a pair of cotton socks in the trunk. This is one area where my strategy changed. Formerly, I'd wear cargo shorts in combination with sweat pants, but my v3 commute (7 miles versus the v2 20 miles) makes that somewhat extraneous, particularly since I no longer drive on occasion in order to facilitate laundry exchanges.

Quick Switch for Work and the Ride Home

Thusly attired, when I get to work, I simply swap out the sweatshirt for a work shirt and swap the wool socks for cotton ones. Pretty simple,and I'll usually wear the cotton socks on the ride home. More often than not, the sweatshirt works fine, with the cycling jacket relegated to the trunk.

Commute clothes are really, however, what works for YOU. I prefer the KISS approach, without buying a lot of "special" items, and without having to carry much extra stuff along.

Safety Goggles Really Help at Freezing. The Cyling Jacket and a Sweatshirt Works Down to 20F
Nowadays, I Usually Wear Work Pants in the Colde. One Advantage of the Shorter, v3 Commute

Seemed Like a Good Idea

When the morning temperature is in the 80's, it takes a long time to cool down after I get to work. Even with a cool shower, I'm all sweaty again within ten minutes and it takes a good half hour to reach a cool equilibrium.

In a moment of brilliance, I thought - "...if I leave my tank top on while I shower, it'll help me cool down quicker!"

Some flashes of brilliance should be tested at home, first. While the top did make an admirable cooling supplement, it also dripped, getting stuff wet that I really didn't WANT to get wet. Besides, a sopping wet tank top is inconvenient when one reaches one's desk.

Prepping to Educate and "THE GODFATHER OF SPANDEX"

UPDATED SATURDAY MORNING REAL EARLY - MOSTLY CAPTIONS -
WE'VE EVEN GOT CYCLISTS FROM ILLINOIS IN OUR CLASS! Right Now I think I ought to go make sure I've got a bike I can ride in front of critics...


Stem-Mounted Barrel Adjusters/Quick Releases are Ubiquitous on Older, Center Pull Braked Bikes
This One Has Less Corrosion Than Many

 Time to get a couple of lectures ready for LCI training this weekend. One of the topics is mostly something I've learned about through many years and dollars of hard experience. That's bicycle braking. I've had most sorts of bicycle rim brakes and learned about leverage and the different ways the brakes get set up. I've even had a LITTLE experience with drum/roller/coaster brakes. When it comes to disc brakes, I know what I've read - and then there are more unusual brakes...

Canti Brakes are Common on Touring and Cyclocross Bikes.
This One Has NO Barrel Adjustment at All
to be Able to Pop the Straddle Wire Out,, I Adjust This Brake With As Much Clearance as I Dare

  

Caliper Brakes on Road Bikes are a Dime a Dozen
This Bike Has TWO Brake Quick Releases. The Other is in the Lever



It's TOUGH to Use a Linear Pull Brake With Road Levers.
The LEVERAGE is All Wrong. This Brake Added a "Travel Agent" to Address the Problem - Sort Of
On This Combo, the Quick Release is Where the "TA" Pops out of the Carrier



Once They Understood About Adjusters, My Daughters Adjust THESE Brakes Easily
It Might Save Their Lives Some Day



You Don't Need to Know How a Roller Brake Works to Adjust One

Disc Brakes Have Various Kinds of Adjustment Rules and Methods
(from Wikipedia)

And Then There are Rod Brakes that at Least Look Cool
(from Wikipedia)



Some Brakes are Derivatives of Spoon Brakes
(from Wikipedia, Believe it or Not)



I'll Avoid any Endorsements of Specific Products;
Even the Very Best

The second topic may be a little more challenging. It's "cycling gear for Spandex Mafia types." I'm sure I've seen enough to hum a few minutes worth!

The "Spandex Godfather" - IN PERSON! With High Vis! Gail, Pay No Attention to those Black Things
That Look Like Earphone Wires!

Hopefully, My "Students" Can Resist THIS Reaction



And I WILL Explain How Cycling-Specific Gear Allows More than a Simple Summer Ride...